Answerman

Is Overtourism in Japan Real and Why is Japan Mad at Tourists?

Alex asks:

In the last couple of years, Japan has implemented major restrictions on tourists in areas like Kyoto. My question is, what have tourists done to upset the Japanese to the point that such measures had to be taken?

You are absolutely right. In March this year, Kyoto City Council imposed restrictions in the traditional Geisha district of Gion, restricting access to some of the neighborhood's most picturesque alleyways because of “overcrowding.” However, according to online news reports, the main issue for residents is the harassment of local geisha and women wearing traditional kimono. Some tourists have been behaving like amateur paparazzi (There's an oxymoron if I've ever seen one), stalking geisha and taking their photographs without permission.

For anyone who has ever visited an anime convention, what is the first rule of cosplay? DO NOT TAKE PHOTOGRAPHS WITHOUT THE SUBJECT'S CONSENT. The same goes for geisha, and anyone generally, no matter where they are or what they are doing. Oh! I'll save you some time. These women do not want you to take their photographs. They don't give a shit if it's your first time in Japan. Just leave them be.

I have recently returned from a short work trip to Tokyo, and even though I could not escape the gravitational pull of the city itself, I did visit some of the busiest districts, including Akihabara, Shinjuku, Shibuya, and Asakusa. On my very first day in Japan, I was traveling on the busy rush hour commuter train (The JR/Yamanote Line) into Shinjuku for a meeting. While riding in that crowded train carriage, I witnessed something truly shocking. A young man, who I thought was Japanese, was eating a MOS Burger out of the wrapper while standing inside the carriage.

In most major cities worldwide, seeing a fellow commuter eating in public while traveling is a common, if sometimes unwelcome, sight. I've visited Japan frequently for the past 16 years and have never seen anyone eating on public transport. Ever! It is forbidden. It's a major faux pas. When I told some of my Japanese friends about the MOS Burger-eating man on my train, they were incredulous. “There is zero chance this was a local Japanese person. We never do that!”

Japan is a country of many rules. It is a place where etiquette is followed strictly and where customs and traditions inform nearly every aspect of day-to-day life. I like to believe that the reason Japan is this way is because harmony is very important to the country as a whole. We often forget in the West that Japan is an ancient land that has suffered more earth-shattering existential events than almost any other place on Earth. Earthquakes, tsunamis, plagues, wars and invasions. It is a country that has had to collectively pick itself up and rebuild from literal ashes time and time again. You can't do that if you don't get along with one another. Hence, all the etiquette. It's hard to fall out with someone if they've not done anything to offend you.

You've probably heard about “overtourism” a lot since the pandemic ended. The World Tourism Organization (UN Tourism) defines overtourism as "the impact of tourism on a destination, or parts thereof, that excessively influences the perceived quality of life of citizens and/or quality of visitor experiences negatively." It's not often a whole country is diagnosed with this problem, but it's happening in Japan. So! What's causing so many people to want to travel to Japan at the same time?

One reason is the pandemic. A direct outcome of the COVID-19 pandemic and associated global lockdown is that more people are traveling abroad than ever before. Two and half years' worth of cabin fever will do that to a person. In addition, the yen has devalued to an all-time low against the dollar (JPY 153 buys $1) and other foreign currencies, making it far cheaper to eat, drink, shop, and stay in Japan than at no other time since. In addition, anime has had a massive positive influence on driving visitor numbers.

The Japan Times reports, "As of September 30, 2024, Japan had nearly 27 million foreign tourist arrivals. This is on track to beat the 2019 record of 31 million visitors.” In addition, during the first nine months of 2024, international tourists spent a whopping JPY 5.8 trillion (US$39 billion) in Japan. A new record.

The largest number of annual visitors come from Southeast Asian countries, with Korea leading the way, followed by China, Hong Kong, and Taiwan, accounting for up to a third of all numbers. For these nearby neighbors, Japan is the ideal short-stay vacation destination. Meanwhile! America, Canadian, and European visitor numbers continue to grow rapidly. What are tourists doing so wrong that they are attracting the ire of the locals and being banned by city councils from sensitive areas?

Gee-whiz! If you spend all day on social media, you might think the answer is “EVERYTHING”! YouTube and Instagram are full of content dedicated to gaijin tourists behaving badly in Japan, including well-known Internet celebrities like Logan Paul, who thought it would be fun to go sight-seeing at the country's most notorious suicide spot, or Johnny Somali, who is currently awaiting trial in South Korea for defacing public artworks depicting crimes against humanity committed during the Second World War. These are quite extreme examples of attention-seeking losers desperate for clicks and likes. Other channels present more mundane versions of “When Good Tourists Go Bad: In Japan” with titles like “You Are Ruining Japan: Tourism is a Real Problem” and “Japan Vs Foreign Tourists: A Worsening Situation.” It's hysterical and hyperbolic clickbait, which I urge you to ignore.

Despite this. Sometimes, some visitors to Japan do behave inconsiderately, and occasionally they act like complete asshats. Here are some recent examples of “Bad Tourist Behavior” in Japan:

• Rowdy European tourists singing on a Shinkansen;
• Tourists littering along the hiking trails near Mount Fuji;
• Illegal parking and climbing onto roofs of public buildings in Fujikawaguchiko to get a better view of Mout Fuji;
• Eating in parking lots;
• Jaywalking on busy city streets;
• Overcrowding on Mount Fuji hiking trail;
• Harassing geisha in Kyoto and photographing them without permission;
• Taking up too much space in general on sidewalks, subway and train stations, including on escalators;
• Smoking and eating on the street;

The first rule of Japan Club is “TAKE UP AS LITTLE SPACE AS POSSIBLE,” especially while out in public. Manspread all you like in the comfort of your own home, but make sure you keep those knees together on a busy subway train. Always be quiet, courteous, and considerate. Don't treat the country like your own personal theme park. Be discreet, and play it cool. Don't be too genki (“energetic”). Save your enthusiasm for the izakaya and karaoke bar in the evening. Be mindful of others at all times. There will always be a lot of others around you because it is a densely populated country.

While out in public, don't speak on your phone or listen to it without headphones. This applies to being on the street, in a store or restaurant, or while traveling on public transport. Don't talk loudly to your traveling companion while commuting, either. Just keep yourself to yourself, and don't get up in other people's grill.

It is true that Japan is experiencing unprecedented numbers of foreign tourists, and in certain hotspots, this is becoming a problem, but please don't think the issue of badly behaved tourists is “out of control” because it isn't. Most visitors are respectful and simply thrilled to finally be in Japan.

I've made this short list of Dos and Don'ts for your next visit to Japan.

• Don't smoke anywhere other than a designated smoking area
• Don't eat on the street, sidewalk, or inside the convenience store or fast food restaurant. Take-out means you take it home or to your office.
• Carry your litter home with you where you should dispose of it. Carry an empty plastic bag with you to collect your litter.
• There are very few trash cans in Tokyo and most major cities.
• Take up as little space as possible.
• Don't have sex on religious shrines ( I shit you not).
• Don't manspread on the subway carriage seats.
• Don't make phone calls in public places, especially on public transport. Always use headphones. Disable your speaker phone. Using it in public makes you look like an absolute wanker.
• Learn some basic and useful phrases including:
• Onegaishimasu (“Please”) and arigatō (“Thank you”)
• Sumimasen, gomen'nasai, gomen'nasai (“Excuse me, Pardon me, I am sorry!”)
• Kon'nichiwa/ kon'nichiwa, soshite konbanwa (“Hello/Good day and Good evening”)
• Show your older relatives and friends who may be visiting how to use Google Translate and Google Maps. They are invaluable tools for navigating Japan.

DO YOUR HOMEWORK before you travel. There is no shortage of great travel advice for Japan. One of my favorite YouTube channels is created by Matcha_Samurai, who is a hilarious source of information on Japanese behavior and etiquette. I can also recommend Chris Broad's “Abroad In Japan” as well as his YouTube channel. Both Chris and Matcha_Samurai delight in demystifying many of the misconceptions foreigners have about the Land of the Rising Sun. You'll laugh and learn something from watching their videos.

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